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	<title>Brian McNitt&#039;s Blog &#187; dura-ace</title>
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		<title>Overhauling a Dura-Ace 10 Crankset</title>
		<link>http://mcnitt.com/dura-ace-10-crankset/</link>
		<comments>http://mcnitt.com/dura-ace-10-crankset/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 08 Jul 2006 04:16:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Brian McNitt</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Triathlon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bike]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crank]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dura-ace]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mcnitt]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[shimano]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[For my gear-head cycling friends out there, a bit of bike maintenance porn. Tonight I faced a daunting task I have avoided for well over a year now. That is, dissembling the frankenstein-like Dura-Ace 10 crankset on my bike and replacing the bottom bracket. (Yes, I&#8217;m a geek but you knew that.) So, I admit [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For my gear-head cycling friends out there, a bit of bike maintenance porn. Tonight I faced a daunting task I have avoided for well over a year now. That is, dissembling the frankenstein-like Dura-Ace 10 crankset on my bike and replacing the bottom bracket. (Yes, I&#8217;m a geek but you knew that.) So, I admit it. I was intimidated by the <a href="http://dura-ace.shimano.com/publish/content/duraace/en/home/the_product0.html">Dura-Ace 10</a> crankset. Heck, I&#8217;ve avoided looking directly at it for almost two years let alone take a wrench it. After all, everything about it is new and unconventional &#8212; from the asymmetrical oversized parts, to the monolithic left crankarm that bolts onto the one-piece axle and right crankarm, to the specialized tools required to remove the crank cap and bottom bracket cups.</p>
<p><img src="http://mcnitt.com/wp-content/uploads/images/duraace-crank.png" alt="Shimano Dura-Ace 10 crank schematic" /></p>
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<p>With parts from Performance bike shop and the Shimano schematic inhand I was ready to face the crank. <span id="more-84"></span>The disassembly turned out to be more straightforward  than I expected but it definitely took a bit of force to remove the bearing cups from the frameset. Nothing the tap of a hammer at the end of the bearing wrench couldn&#8217;t solve. The main axle and right crankarm assembly wasn&#8217;t quick to budge either but a small sideways tap with a hammer and wood block solved that as well. In the end, it was an unexpectedly easy job &#8212; the mark of a well engineered system. If you own Dura-Ave 10 and have been avoiding this task like I have, I encourage you to check out the <a href="http://mcnitt.com/wp-content/uploads/documents/SI_1F30H_En_v1_m56577569830605111.pdf">PDF manual from Shimano</a> and grab the <a href="http://www.performancebike.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&#038;storeId=10052&#038;catalogId=10551&#038;productId=1030472">necessary tools</a> from Performance (<del datetime="2009-09-27T23:29:56+00:00">under</del> $20 total) and have at it.</p>
<p>As a side note, the only slightly concerning discovery is that my crankset is missing the &#8220;stopper plate&#8221; shown in the Shimano diagram. Hmmm, should I be concerned? The plate appears to only hold the assembly together in the event that both the left crankarm and end cap come loose &#8212; a highly unlikely scenario it seems.  Besides, it took quite a love tap to free the axle from the bike in the complete absence of the left crankarm and end cap. Guess I&#8217;ll look for a replacement but won&#8217;t worry about it much in the meantime. Happy riding.</p>
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